This otherwise drab square, centered around the Chueca metro station, is lined with cafés and bars all catering to the gay scene. Madrid has a thriving gay scene: 'el ambiente.' 'El ambiente' literally means 'the atmosphere,' and if you're into it, you just have to answer one question: ¿entiendes? (Do you understand?) If you answer yes, 'sí,' you've made your position clearly understood.